Estanque del Retiro

An impressive artificial lake that complements The Monument to Alfonso XII in Buen Retiro Park.

TravelCurious Tip

Keep an eye out for fish, crabs and terrapins in the lake - its most famous denizen was the 12-kilogram carp Margarita, and there are still some impressive specimens today.

Renaissance lake

Estanque del Retiro was added to Buen Retiro Park as part of improvements commissioned in the 1630s by the Count-Duke of Olivares, who was constructing the Palace of Buen Retiro at the time. The palace complex and gardens were a controversial and expensive project, contradicting the Count-Duke’s own austerity measures: what remains today is the legacy of a brash and ultimately unsuccessful political figure.

Olivares recruited the Florentine engineer and scenographer Cosimo Lotti to redesign the gardens in Italianate style. Lotti fashioned the park that was hailed as a wonder of the Spanish Renaissance: the spectacular lake, as well as a number of fountains and a great canal, were born of a dramatic impulse. Lotti was talented at theatrical effects, impressing the king so much that he was made organiser of the theatre at the Palace. In its heyday, the lake was used for mock sea-battles and other aquatic spectacles.

The lake today can be enjoyed by boat: canoes are available for 45-minute hire, and if that’s too much exertion you can also take a ten-minute circuit on a solar-powered craft. Encircling one end is the Monument to King Alfonso XII.

Nearby Attractions

See all attractions in Madrid
Parque El Retiro
The green heart of Madrid, hosting an array of gardens and monuments.
Monument to Alfonso XII
An equestrian statue of the monarch in the centre of Buen Retiro Park, offering the best view over the lake.
Palacio de Cristal
The extraordinary glass and iron palace built to display the flora of the Philippines in 1887.
Palacio de Velázquez
This beautiful neoclassical building is an exhibition hall located in Buen Retiro Park.
San Jerónimo el Real
A 16th century Roman Catholic church with royal connections, now used by the Prado Museum.
Casón del Buen Retiro
One of two remaining 17th-century buildings in Buen Retiro Park, the Casón is home to a famous fresco.

Related Tours

Explore El Retiro: Private 1.5-hour Tour of Madrid’s Largest Park

Retiro Park is one of the largest green spaces in Madrid and certainly the most beloved by locals and travellers alike. With a history spanning over 500 years, there is much to discover within its beautifully landscaped grounds. On our 1.5-hour private tour of El Retiro, you will explore the most interesting corners of the park with a knowledgeable local guide, who can immerse you in this iconic urban oasis and point out the main highlights and the hidden details that many visitors miss.

On this 1.5-hour private tour, you will:

  • Embark upon a private tour of Madrid’s illustrious Retiro Park;
  • Enjoy the undivided attention of your local expert guide;
  • Pass through the grand neoclassical Puerta Real, a majestic entryway originally built for royal processions;
  • Learn about the history of the park from its origins as an exclusive Royal retreat to the lively public recreation area of today;
  • Admire the park’s most iconic gardens, sculptures, architecture and water features;
  • Stroll around the expansive Estanque (great pond) and marvel at the impressive Monument to King Alfonso XII;
  • Stop and smell the flowers at the elegant Parterre garden;
  • Unearth hidden details around the perimeter of the park, like the Gate of Philip IV;
  • Pass by the sparkling Crystal Palace and learn about its artistic heritage and connection with the Reina Sofía Museum;
  • Uncover lesser-known parts of the park like the Royal Astronomical Observatory.

Our tour of Retiro Park provides an invigorating outdoor adventure in the heart of Madrid where you will enjoy a charming combination of history, art, and nature in the company of a passionate local guide. Your journey will begin at the Puerta Real (Royal Gate) one of the elaborate entrances that line the perimeter of the park. As you begin to explore some of Retiro’s tranquil pathways, your guide will bring the park’s transformation to life, recounting its evolution from a private sanctuary of the Habsburg dynasty to the cherished public space it is today.

While the exact route around the park may vary depending on the interests of the group and the conditions on the day, you will be sure to visit the Estanque Grande, the large and imposing pond that forms the park’s centrepiece. You’ll observe rowboats gently glide across the sparkling waters and hear compelling performances from musicians who often gather around the edges. Your guide will also show you the monumental Alfonso XII colonnade—a grand semicircular structure that frames the top of the pond. You’ll learn how it stands as a monument to a fallen king as well as a testament to Spanish architectural elegance.

Throughout your time together, your guide will point out sculptures, fountains, and other features that showcase the park’s artistic and historical depth, as well as its role in the daily life of modern Madrileños. You will likely spend some time wandering the manicured paths of the Parterre Garden, a floral paradise filled with symmetrical hedges, fragrant blooms, and one of the oldest trees in Madrid. Here your guide will recount the history behind these formal French-style gardens and the artistry involved in their design. At the foot of the gardens, you can also contemplate the Gate of Philip IV, an ornate Baroque entrance once reserved for royalty.

As you venture deeper into the park, you will get a closer look at the breathtaking Crystal Palace, a masterpiece of 19th-century architecture. Made entirely of glass and iron, this stunning pavilion was once used to display exotic flora and now serves as a striking venue for contemporary art exhibitions managed by the Reina Sofía Museum. Your guide will help you discover its artistic heritage and the story of its construction. Beyond the park’s main attractions, your guide will lead you to lesser-known corners, where you’ll find intriguing relics of the past like the Royal Astronomical Observatory, an elegant neoclassical structure tied to Madrid’s scientific history.

Your tour will end at one of the park’s most infamous monuments, the Fountain of the Fallen Angel, where your guide will explain how this depiction of Lucifer is unique in the world and offer recommendations for exploring the park or nearby charming neighbourhoods. By the end of your journey, you’ll not only have seen the best of Retiro Park but also gained a true appreciation for its place in Madrid’s heart and history.

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